Everything you need to know about exfoliation
We have talked before about body scrubs and their beneficial effect on the removal of dead cells and skin renewal.
There are various scrubs, depending on their texture and the intensity of their exfoliating action.
We have presented you with the two scrubs we prepare at Seamuse, the mildest Sugar scrub and the most intensive Salt scrub with bentonite clay and green seaweed. Both are excellent products and we recommend them for body exfoliation, but as you will have read, we do not recommend them for facial exfoliation.
The reason is that mechanical exfoliation is not really indicated for the face’s sensitive skin, because of the micro-abrasion that creates invisible to the naked eye, scars. For this reason, reputable dermatologists and experts recommend chemical exfoliation instead of mechanical exfoliation.
First, let us talk about the problems addressed by systematic exfoliation:
• Small lumps on the skin, due to uneven texture.
• Acne scars
• Discoloration due to sun exposure or a flare-up of acne that has healed.
• Active Acne
• Aging and fine wrinkles
Chemical exfoliators are divided into water-soluble (AHA or α-hydroxy acids), and oil-soluble (BHA, or β-hydroxy acids) and they have a different effect on the skin. AHA’s affect the skin’s surface layers, accelerate the rate of apoptosis and activate the collagen and elastin production mechanism.
Some AHAs to mention are glycolic acid derived from sugar cane, lactic acid, tartaric from grape and wine, malic from apples, citric acid from citrus fruits, etc. Glycolic acid is the preferred one by dermatologists.
It is recommended to use products with a 5-8% content and depending on the skin’s reaction. They usually create a slight sting-like sensation, with a very short duration.
You should not exceed the recommended use and frequency so as not to create irritation to the skin. Products sold commercially with the above concentration work gently without causing visible exfoliation or peeling of the skin. However, they have significant potency and with systematic use impressive results in the anti-aging of the skin.
Products with a higher content (30%) should be applied by specialist dermatologists in a doctor’s office and create intense irritation and peeling. The results of course are impressive and very immediate. The skin rejuvenates, becomes radiant, and the signs of acne or sun exposure fade.
You can choose the AHAs that best suit your skin type, oily, dry, normal, sensitive.
BHA’s are oil-soluble substances that penetrate the pores, where they dissolve sebum and prevent the creation of black spots, pimples, and acne inflammations.
Products with a content of 2% are recommended. Their systematic use prevents the creation of acne and black spots.
How often should you apply hydroxy acid products?
AHA’s maybe more irritant than BHA’s and may cause irritation and redness if you exaggerate the dosage or frequency.
It is a good thing to use them 2-3 times a week during your evening regiment. BHA’s are much milder and can be used daily without fear.
Hydroxy acids should not be used together with vitamin C and retinoids products. It is recommended to alternate them during your weekly regiment.
Very important: with the use of AHA’s you should always use sun protection to protect the new skin that appears.
For greater safety, it is recommended to stop them during the months with intense sunshine, from May to September.
Find more information here: https://www.healthline.com/health/aha-vs-bha
Very good company to find the products: https://www.paulaschoice-eu.com/products?prefn1=searchPlacement&prefv1=Exfoliants
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